On to yet another memorial complex this time dedicated to the soldiers and seaman who have died during peacetime. These monuments include the snow-white church of the Saviour-on-the-Waters Orthodox Church – Spas an Vodakh - built for the sailors of Murmansk (see photograph) to commemorate the 85th anniversary of the city's foundation; a memorial lighthouse – not functioning – and the KURSK submarine.
An article in Wikipedia records that on the morning of 12 August 2000, as part of a naval exercise, the Kursk was to fire two dummy torpedoes. At 11:29 local time a torpedo was loaded. Due to a leaking weld in the torpedo's fuel system, an explosion occurred that registered as a weak seismic signature on detectors hundreds of kilometres away. A second explosion took place some 3 minutes later that blew large pieces of debris back through the submarine.
You will probably remember that although British and Norwegian teams offered rescue attempts, Russia declined these offers and all 118 sailors and officers aboard perished. Their ensued a media debate about how and when any crew members who survived the explosions remained alive. The Russian Admiralty at first suggested most of the crew died within minutes of the explosions but when a Dutch team recovered the submarine in 2001 it was found that some of the sailors had time to write notes.
A horrible tragedy marked here by a memorial that consists of a replica (?) of the Kursk’s conning tower and a poignant reminder of the risks that all seaman face above and below the sea.
The last stop was at a new monument called the ‘Waiting Women’ and is dedicated to those waiting for their loved ones to return from the sea (See photo).
At this memorial site another wedding tradition caught my attention: padlocks secured to the railings and engraved with the names of newly weds as a symbol of hope for a successful marriage.
It was then back to the ship and a not so easy get-away as the captain had planned since a trawler had moored at another dock at right-angles to our spot with its stern across our bows and another ship was now moored behind. The Captain had to perform a very tricky side manoeuvre, inching forwards and backwards with the bow thrusters pushing us away from the dockside. This took some 20 minutes of teeth shattering vibration from the propellers just as we began the dinner!
And so we at last waved ‘Goodbye’ to the men in black and began our voyage to Archangel we are due to arrive on Monday morning.
No comments:
Post a Comment